Sugary smells waft from bakeries and candy shops. Enjoy the flavors of rosettes (a thin, crispy molded cookie), and turn your head at the occasional "Velkommen" (the Norwegian greeting). Bundled in mittens and scarves, wide-eyed children skip down Main Street, tugging tightly on mom's and dad's hands. Rosy-cheeked carolers stroll door-to-door, singing tunes of the season--but this is no fairy tale. You can feel the Yuletide spirit in Mount Horeb.